cheebacheeba
02-15-2006, 05:13 AM
So...I was thinking, I don't remember processes so well sometimes, and it seems to help to write them out. As some off you would know, I'm studying to be a chef.
A lot to learn.
So, I figure I'll kill two birds with one stone here, help myself remember, while sharing some of the things I learn. I won't update super-often, but all the same, I hope you can all find some use of this stuff.
So, working on stocks and sauces at the moment.
Here's a couple of recipes for BECHAMEL and MOURNAY sauce.
Here's what you'll need, folks:
~Bechamel sauce (base)~
1 litre Milk
Whole peppercorns
Dried or Fresh Onion (if fresh, finely dice)
Cloves
Butter (or preferred fat agent)
PLAIN flour (never self raising)
~Mournay~
Preferred cheese
1 Egg
Large pinch of mustard powder
Smaller pinch of cayenne pepper (half of mustard powder)
Onto the recipe:
FIRST of all, In a pot, pour a litre of milk. Add 5-6 whole peppercorns, a tablespoon of onion (we used dried onion today, but either is fine), 2-3 cloves, then put it over heat, and bring to the boil...don't let it boil up, just get it to that point. this is a milk infusion. Leave this on a warm heat, doing NO MORE than simmering at most. If your pot retains enough heat, you can turn the heat off.
Bear in mind, this stuff HAS to stay at least "hot" for the recipe to follow.
Then you gotta make yourself a "roux" which is pronounced more or less like "roo".
This is the "base" of a lot of sauces, and it's basically used to thicken. It is a mixture of equal parts butter (or preffered fat agent) and flour.
There are "white", "straw/blonde", and "brown" roux', each getting darker, and more malleable with further simmering.
The further you do this, the further dextrinisation occurs, and the darker/more malleable the mixture becomes.
This is browning of the flour.
This first recipe, for bechamel sauce uses the first one, a "white", as does the mournay sauce, which is a "derivative" or "child" of the bechamel sauce.
Ok, white raux. Again, EQUAL parts butter and flour.
This does not change, regardless of which Roux you make.
The quantities I made today use 1 litre of the infused milk, and make about enough to fill up a LARGE takeaway container in the end.
You start with 80grams of both flour and butter. Never use self raising flour.
Melt down the butter in a cooking pan, not too high a heat, if it at all browns, it's ruined. So best to start with a "cold" pan, and let it heat up. Once you have done this, add your flour little by little, but overall...the point is, just get an even spread, then mix the two into a paste over heat.
Keep stirring it over heat, and when it starts to seperate, and has an ever so slightly darker colour (not really) and a "sandy" kind of consistancy, your white roux is ready. Personally, I think it's when it starts looking like scrambled eggs, same deal.
You must make sure both your roux and milk are hot.
They wont "take" as well otherwise. If your milk is no longer hot, microwave it (but if you've regulated the heat white you make your roux, this shouldn't be necessary.)
Take both milk and roux off the heat.
Strain your milk. Get yourself a mixing spoon, and stir the milk into the raux.
You gotta add it little by little, maybe 50-100 mills at a time, right?
Stir it in EACH time until the raux "absorbs" the milk, it'll just start making a thicker and thicker paste, it actually gets a little difficult to mix...but keep at it, these sauces are REALLY good.
Now, make sure you mix it REALLY well, making sure that you don't let thickER stuff build up on your spoon or anyplace in the pot - really get into all the corners of your pot all thru the process. This will give your sauce a silky and lump-free consistancy.
Keep adding your milk little by little, making sure each time it's absorbed by the mixture fully before adding more.
When there's about half a litre to go, you can start adding the milk faster, as the mixture gets thinner, it absorbs more easily.
When it's ALL together, it's more recognisable as the bechamel you's know...but, it's not done yet.
You gotta bring it SLOWLY towards boiling point. Medium-high heat only, and NEVER let it actually boil up. when you get bubbles, quit. Stir always, again, making sure to keep getthing into the corners.
Ok, turn your heat off for a moment, then make a cartouche'.
This is something you can put over your sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
Oven paper is best. Fold it once, then again across the first fold.
Kinda like this way - then this way | then this way \
At the corner that all the points meet, fold it into a triangle, making the long point, the point where all the corners are connected and "meet"
Then, at the point where all the corners meet, point it to the middle of the area of the TOP of your pot, and rip off all the paper that falls outside the perimeters of the pot circumference. when you unfold it, you got a perfect circle that will cover your sauce.
LIGHTLY butter the smoother side of the paper, and carefully place it down, butter side down, onto your sauce.
You can use your hands if you're not sensetive, or the CLEAN wooden spoon. Ideally, there should be little air touching the surface, as you don't want condensation, so it's a careful kinda process. I go with hands myself.
So, you kinda "seal" it.
Then, you put on a light heat, and simmer it for 20 (no more) minutes.
Make sure you regulate the heat, yeah?
DON'T let it boil up at all, but make sure you have SOME "movement", NO bubbles.
Then, get your preferred HEAT-PROOF container, and strain the mixture (preferably) through a chinoise.
Ah, a chionois is a conical strainer without the french bullshit.
It's pronounced a little like "shin-war".
The chinois is all I used today, and I'm not 100% on this, but I'd SAY any kinda strainer would be ok...
There you go, there's your bechamel sauce. You can refrigerate it, and it should keep 2-3 days.
You can use it for a LOT of things...I imagine you'll go down the lasagne path...and GOOD, because when you make it yourself,
it's actually a lot cheaper, and SO much better than store bought shit.
Sure, a little more time consuming, but then again, EVERY good recipe is.
Personal suggestion, try adding some capers, spanish onion and a little shredded smoked salmon, served over spinach pasta with cracked pepper on top.
That should go pretty well...but hey, experiment to your hearts desire.
END OF RECIPE 1.
Here, I'm gonna teach you some more...to turn bechamel into mournay. It's quite simple.
Grate some cheese...the finer the grate the better. Also, choose a nice "real" cheese...the better the cheese, the better the sauce.
We used this absolutely STINKING french cheese beggining with G...groudeir maybe? Smelled "aged" but tasted very bitey, and nice
Worked fucking WONDERS in the sauce. Basically, a good cheese, one you buy at a deli or whatever.
I would reccomend a finer grate, if you have multiple graters.
IF you've cooled your bechamel, get it out and bring it up to heat...almost to a boil, again..."hot".
If it's still "fresh" right outta the pot, all good, you won't have to do this. Keep it HOT.
Here's the part that you might find tricky...You need to seperate an egg.
The yolk is what you need this time, not the white.
Get a bowl, or two, to catch the whites, and the yolk.
To do this, the easiest way is to crack an egg carefully (so the crack doesn't carry through the entire shell), around about the middle, leaving a little
more space on the "bottom" (wider) side.
Then, CAREFULLY open the shell with your thumbs, keeping the egg "upright". When you do this, keep the "top" half in your other hand.
The yolk should sit within the bottom half of the shell, and the white should start falling out...let it.
Then "transfer" the yolk carefully between both shells again and again, at a SLIGHT angle. More and more white will seperate.
Be careful not to have the yolk collide with the jagged edge of the shell, as it'll break the yolk, which will then run into your whites.
All going well, you should have your egg yolk, ready to go, in your bowl.
Now you need to add the sauce and the egg together.
However, you can NOT add egg to sauce, you must add SAUCE to EGG.
This is to "temper" the egg, which I gather means get it used to the heat without immediately COOKING/coagulating it...basically, if you put the egg into all that sauce, it seperates and hardens too quick, and cooks just like that, and you want a SAUCE, not an egg scramble.
Also, if you fuck up, you haven't ruined your entire sauce.
So, what you do is get a spoon or ladle, and put about twice the quantity of sauce on and around the egg, then mix the sauce into the egg quickly...you should end up with a slightly yellow-er sauce.
(The egg is added for flavour, but primarily consistancy by the way)
Pour your egg/sauce mixture back into the main quantity of the sauce, and mix it in WELL.
Bring the sauce back up to a good heat, stirring all the while.
Then, add a large pinch of mustard powder, and a smaller (half the amount of the mustard powder, say) pinch of cayenne pepper, continue stirring.
Then you add your grated cheese, and stir it in. The finer the grate, the easier and quicker it will mix into your sauce and the more evenly it will distribute.
Turn the heat off, and that's it, thats your mournay sauce.
Anything you put this over will become "whatever - mournay".
Excellent baked onto lobster or oysters. But pretty good on just about anything, chicken, beef, whatever.
Creativity is what makes this one good, so again, experiment, and enjoy.
- B.
PS: Please bring any mistakes or continuity issues to my attention. Thankyou.
A lot to learn.
So, I figure I'll kill two birds with one stone here, help myself remember, while sharing some of the things I learn. I won't update super-often, but all the same, I hope you can all find some use of this stuff.
So, working on stocks and sauces at the moment.
Here's a couple of recipes for BECHAMEL and MOURNAY sauce.
Here's what you'll need, folks:
~Bechamel sauce (base)~
1 litre Milk
Whole peppercorns
Dried or Fresh Onion (if fresh, finely dice)
Cloves
Butter (or preferred fat agent)
PLAIN flour (never self raising)
~Mournay~
Preferred cheese
1 Egg
Large pinch of mustard powder
Smaller pinch of cayenne pepper (half of mustard powder)
Onto the recipe:
FIRST of all, In a pot, pour a litre of milk. Add 5-6 whole peppercorns, a tablespoon of onion (we used dried onion today, but either is fine), 2-3 cloves, then put it over heat, and bring to the boil...don't let it boil up, just get it to that point. this is a milk infusion. Leave this on a warm heat, doing NO MORE than simmering at most. If your pot retains enough heat, you can turn the heat off.
Bear in mind, this stuff HAS to stay at least "hot" for the recipe to follow.
Then you gotta make yourself a "roux" which is pronounced more or less like "roo".
This is the "base" of a lot of sauces, and it's basically used to thicken. It is a mixture of equal parts butter (or preffered fat agent) and flour.
There are "white", "straw/blonde", and "brown" roux', each getting darker, and more malleable with further simmering.
The further you do this, the further dextrinisation occurs, and the darker/more malleable the mixture becomes.
This is browning of the flour.
This first recipe, for bechamel sauce uses the first one, a "white", as does the mournay sauce, which is a "derivative" or "child" of the bechamel sauce.
Ok, white raux. Again, EQUAL parts butter and flour.
This does not change, regardless of which Roux you make.
The quantities I made today use 1 litre of the infused milk, and make about enough to fill up a LARGE takeaway container in the end.
You start with 80grams of both flour and butter. Never use self raising flour.
Melt down the butter in a cooking pan, not too high a heat, if it at all browns, it's ruined. So best to start with a "cold" pan, and let it heat up. Once you have done this, add your flour little by little, but overall...the point is, just get an even spread, then mix the two into a paste over heat.
Keep stirring it over heat, and when it starts to seperate, and has an ever so slightly darker colour (not really) and a "sandy" kind of consistancy, your white roux is ready. Personally, I think it's when it starts looking like scrambled eggs, same deal.
You must make sure both your roux and milk are hot.
They wont "take" as well otherwise. If your milk is no longer hot, microwave it (but if you've regulated the heat white you make your roux, this shouldn't be necessary.)
Take both milk and roux off the heat.
Strain your milk. Get yourself a mixing spoon, and stir the milk into the raux.
You gotta add it little by little, maybe 50-100 mills at a time, right?
Stir it in EACH time until the raux "absorbs" the milk, it'll just start making a thicker and thicker paste, it actually gets a little difficult to mix...but keep at it, these sauces are REALLY good.
Now, make sure you mix it REALLY well, making sure that you don't let thickER stuff build up on your spoon or anyplace in the pot - really get into all the corners of your pot all thru the process. This will give your sauce a silky and lump-free consistancy.
Keep adding your milk little by little, making sure each time it's absorbed by the mixture fully before adding more.
When there's about half a litre to go, you can start adding the milk faster, as the mixture gets thinner, it absorbs more easily.
When it's ALL together, it's more recognisable as the bechamel you's know...but, it's not done yet.
You gotta bring it SLOWLY towards boiling point. Medium-high heat only, and NEVER let it actually boil up. when you get bubbles, quit. Stir always, again, making sure to keep getthing into the corners.
Ok, turn your heat off for a moment, then make a cartouche'.
This is something you can put over your sauce to prevent a skin from forming.
Oven paper is best. Fold it once, then again across the first fold.
Kinda like this way - then this way | then this way \
At the corner that all the points meet, fold it into a triangle, making the long point, the point where all the corners are connected and "meet"
Then, at the point where all the corners meet, point it to the middle of the area of the TOP of your pot, and rip off all the paper that falls outside the perimeters of the pot circumference. when you unfold it, you got a perfect circle that will cover your sauce.
LIGHTLY butter the smoother side of the paper, and carefully place it down, butter side down, onto your sauce.
You can use your hands if you're not sensetive, or the CLEAN wooden spoon. Ideally, there should be little air touching the surface, as you don't want condensation, so it's a careful kinda process. I go with hands myself.
So, you kinda "seal" it.
Then, you put on a light heat, and simmer it for 20 (no more) minutes.
Make sure you regulate the heat, yeah?
DON'T let it boil up at all, but make sure you have SOME "movement", NO bubbles.
Then, get your preferred HEAT-PROOF container, and strain the mixture (preferably) through a chinoise.
Ah, a chionois is a conical strainer without the french bullshit.
It's pronounced a little like "shin-war".
The chinois is all I used today, and I'm not 100% on this, but I'd SAY any kinda strainer would be ok...
There you go, there's your bechamel sauce. You can refrigerate it, and it should keep 2-3 days.
You can use it for a LOT of things...I imagine you'll go down the lasagne path...and GOOD, because when you make it yourself,
it's actually a lot cheaper, and SO much better than store bought shit.
Sure, a little more time consuming, but then again, EVERY good recipe is.
Personal suggestion, try adding some capers, spanish onion and a little shredded smoked salmon, served over spinach pasta with cracked pepper on top.
That should go pretty well...but hey, experiment to your hearts desire.
END OF RECIPE 1.
Here, I'm gonna teach you some more...to turn bechamel into mournay. It's quite simple.
Grate some cheese...the finer the grate the better. Also, choose a nice "real" cheese...the better the cheese, the better the sauce.
We used this absolutely STINKING french cheese beggining with G...groudeir maybe? Smelled "aged" but tasted very bitey, and nice
Worked fucking WONDERS in the sauce. Basically, a good cheese, one you buy at a deli or whatever.
I would reccomend a finer grate, if you have multiple graters.
IF you've cooled your bechamel, get it out and bring it up to heat...almost to a boil, again..."hot".
If it's still "fresh" right outta the pot, all good, you won't have to do this. Keep it HOT.
Here's the part that you might find tricky...You need to seperate an egg.
The yolk is what you need this time, not the white.
Get a bowl, or two, to catch the whites, and the yolk.
To do this, the easiest way is to crack an egg carefully (so the crack doesn't carry through the entire shell), around about the middle, leaving a little
more space on the "bottom" (wider) side.
Then, CAREFULLY open the shell with your thumbs, keeping the egg "upright". When you do this, keep the "top" half in your other hand.
The yolk should sit within the bottom half of the shell, and the white should start falling out...let it.
Then "transfer" the yolk carefully between both shells again and again, at a SLIGHT angle. More and more white will seperate.
Be careful not to have the yolk collide with the jagged edge of the shell, as it'll break the yolk, which will then run into your whites.
All going well, you should have your egg yolk, ready to go, in your bowl.
Now you need to add the sauce and the egg together.
However, you can NOT add egg to sauce, you must add SAUCE to EGG.
This is to "temper" the egg, which I gather means get it used to the heat without immediately COOKING/coagulating it...basically, if you put the egg into all that sauce, it seperates and hardens too quick, and cooks just like that, and you want a SAUCE, not an egg scramble.
Also, if you fuck up, you haven't ruined your entire sauce.
So, what you do is get a spoon or ladle, and put about twice the quantity of sauce on and around the egg, then mix the sauce into the egg quickly...you should end up with a slightly yellow-er sauce.
(The egg is added for flavour, but primarily consistancy by the way)
Pour your egg/sauce mixture back into the main quantity of the sauce, and mix it in WELL.
Bring the sauce back up to a good heat, stirring all the while.
Then, add a large pinch of mustard powder, and a smaller (half the amount of the mustard powder, say) pinch of cayenne pepper, continue stirring.
Then you add your grated cheese, and stir it in. The finer the grate, the easier and quicker it will mix into your sauce and the more evenly it will distribute.
Turn the heat off, and that's it, thats your mournay sauce.
Anything you put this over will become "whatever - mournay".
Excellent baked onto lobster or oysters. But pretty good on just about anything, chicken, beef, whatever.
Creativity is what makes this one good, so again, experiment, and enjoy.
- B.
PS: Please bring any mistakes or continuity issues to my attention. Thankyou.